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Berkshire EcoClean

Checklist

The Deep Cleaning Checklist a Professional Works To (Room by Room)

9 min read

A deep clean is not a longer version of a weekly clean. It is a different scope, done in a different order, and most of it is work routine cleaning never touches: inside the oven and the fridge, inside cupboards, behind appliances, the full height of every room and the detail along every edge. Our weekly house cleaning checklist has a whole tier labelled "not weekly at all" — this is the list that tier belongs to. Work through it top to bottom and nothing in a home gets skipped.

In short: work one room at a time, top to bottom, dry work before wet work, and leave every floor until last. Budget 3–4 hours for a studio or one-bed, 4–5 for a two-bed, 5–6 for a three-bed and 6–8+ for a four-bed — Checkatrade puts a typical one-off deep clean at around six hours. The kitchen and bathrooms take roughly half of that between them, whatever the size of the property.

What makes this different from a weekly checklist

The distinction matters because it decides what you should expect to be done, and what you should expect to pay extra for. A regular visit maintains a home that is already at standard. A deep clean takes a home that has drifted below standard — or has never been at one — and resets it, which means dealing with accumulated soil rather than fresh soil. Those are different jobs with different tools and very different timings.

The jobIn a weekly cleanIn a deep clean
OvenFront and glass wipedInterior degreased — door glass, racks, trays, seals
Kitchen cupboardsFronts and handlesEmptied where practical, cleaned inside, tops included
LimescaleRoutine descaling of taps and screenAccumulated scale treated with dwell time, repeated passes
Skirting and doorsOn rotation, every 2–4 visitsEvery run, every room, in the same pass
Behind appliancesNot attemptedPulled out where safe; floor and sides cleaned

The same five jobs, handled differently by a weekly visit and a deep clean.

If you are weighing up which you need, the deep clean cost guide prices both and explains where a one-off clean, a deep clean and an end of tenancy clean actually differ.

Before anyone starts: the twenty minutes that decide the timings

  1. Clear surfaces and floors. A deep clean priced by the room still has to reach the room. Anything left on a worktop, a windowsill or a floor gets worked around rather than cleaned under.
  2. Empty the fridge and at least the lower kitchen cupboards if you want their interiors done. Nobody can clean inside a full cupboard.
  3. Strip the beds. Bedding should go on at 60°C — Allergy UK states that "washing at 60 degrees centigrade or above will kill mites", and cooler washes only rinse the allergen away temporarily.
  4. Decide what the three priorities are. Deep cleans run long, and a good one spends the overrun on what you care about rather than spreading it thin.
  5. Flag natural stone, waxed or unsealed wood, and any pets, babies or diagnosed sensitivities. Acidic descalers etch marble, limestone and travertine permanently, and the etch cannot be polished out.
Safety, before the products come out: never mix cleaning products. NHS Employers' guidance is explicit that "chlorine-based disinfectant chemicals should never be mixed with ammonia or acid containing cleaning products as chloramine gases released can lead to serious harm at high concentrations" — and a bathroom deep clean is exactly where someone reaches for bleach and a limescale remover in the same ten minutes. Use one product, rinse, then the next.

The order of work

Professionals follow a fixed sequence, and it is the single biggest difference between a deep clean that takes six hours and the same job taking twelve. The principle is that nothing already cleaned gets re-soiled.

  1. One room finished completely before moving to the next — not all the dusting, then all the floors.
  2. Top down in every room: ceiling line, cornice and light fittings, then high shelves, then surfaces, then skirting, then floor.
  3. Dry work before wet work. Dust and cobwebs come off dry, because a damp cloth on dry dust makes mud in the grout.
  4. Spray and leave. Oven interior, shower screen, toilet and anything limescaled get product applied early and left to dwell while you work elsewhere, then come back to. Scrubbing a surface you sprayed ten seconds ago is wasted effort.
  5. Bathrooms started first and finished last, so dwell time runs in parallel with the rest of the house.
  6. Floors last, working backwards out of each room — and the whole-property floors last of all.
  7. Carpet and upholstery extraction after everything else, never before. It is the one job that should not have dust falling on it afterwards.

Kitchen

Budget 1.5–2.5 hours. The kitchen and the bathrooms are where a deep clean earns its price, and the oven alone can take an hour.

  • Oven interior degreased — walls, floor, roof, racks, trays, and the door glass including between the panes where the door dismantles safely
  • Hob, burners, pan supports and the control knobs lifted and cleaned behind
  • Extractor hood, canopy and the grease filters degreased — filters out and soaked, not wiped in place
  • Microwave inside, including the roof, the turntable and the ring beneath it
  • Fridge emptied, shelves and drawers washed and dried, door seals cleaned along the folds, and the thermostat checked afterwards — UK government food safety guidance is that "your fridge should be between 0 and 5°C"
  • Freezer defrosted and cleaned, if it is not frost-free and you have asked for it
  • Dishwasher and washing machine — filter, door seal, detergent drawer and the gap behind the drawer
  • Inside every cupboard and drawer that has been emptied; cupboard fronts, handles and the tops of wall units
  • Worktops cleared, cleaned and dried, including underneath the kettle, toaster and anything else that lives out
  • Sink, taps, drainer grooves and plughole descaled; waste and overflow flushed
  • Tiles and grout cleaned; splashback degreased; sealant line checked for mould
  • Bin washed out inside and the lid, rim and hinge cleaned, not just re-lined
  • Appliances pulled out where safe — floor, sides and the wall behind cleaned, then everything pushed back level
  • Floor washed last, including edges, kick-boards and the strip under the units

Bathrooms and en-suites

Budget 45–75 minutes per bathroom. In this part of the country, most of that time is limescale rather than dirt — Thames Water states that all the water in its region is hard, so a Berkshire bathroom accumulates scale faster than one in most of England. Our guide to removing limescale in a hard water area covers which surfaces an acid descaler must never touch.

  • Shower screen descaled on both faces and dried to a streak-free finish — this is the job that visually defines a bathroom
  • Showerhead and hose descaled, with the head soaked if the jets are partially blocked
  • Taps, mixer, waste covers and all chrome descaled and buffed dry
  • Bath, shower tray and enclosure cleaned; the seal between tray and wall cleaned along its length
  • Tiles and grout cleaned; grout haze and surface mould treated with an appropriate product
  • Toilet descaled inside including under the rim and below the waterline, plus the outside, the seat hinges, the base, the pipework and the wall behind
  • Basin, pedestal, vanity unit inside and out, and the overflow
  • Mirrors, cabinet fronts and cabinet interiors
  • Extractor fan cover removed, washed and the grille vacuumed
  • Radiator or towel rail cleaned including between the bars and behind
  • Skirting, door, frame, handle and the back of the door
  • Floor washed last, including behind the toilet, along every edge and into the corners

One honest limit on mould. Cleaning removes mould from a surface, it does not fix why the surface is wet. Government guidance on damp and mould in the home is blunt about it: "Simply removing surface mould will not prevent the damp and mould from reappearing." The same guidance notes that "mould and mildew products should be used in preference to bleach, for health and safety reasons" — bleach lifts the colour out of a stain without necessarily dealing with the growth. If mould keeps returning in the same place, the answer is ventilation or a building repair, not a harder scrub.

Bedrooms

Budget 30–45 minutes per room.

  • Ceiling line and cornice checked for cobwebs; light fitting and shade dusted or washed
  • Wardrobe and chest of drawers cleaned inside where emptied, plus the tops, which collect more dust than any other surface in a bedroom
  • Mattress vacuumed on both faces and along the piping, then turned or rotated if the type allows
  • Headboard and bed frame cleaned, including the slats and the floor underneath the bed
  • Curtains vacuumed with the upholstery tool; blinds cleaned slat by slat; curtain pole and brackets dusted
  • Internal window, frame, sill, handle and the runner channel
  • Radiator cleaned including the fins and the wall behind
  • Skirting, door, frame, architrave, door top, handle, light switch and socket faces
  • Mirrors and glass; picture frames and their tops
  • Floor vacuumed into the edges and under the bed, then mopped if hard

If the room belongs to someone with a dust-mite allergy, the two highest-value actions are not cleaning tasks at all: the 60°C bedding wash above, and humidity control — Allergy UK advises keeping indoor humidity "under 50% (but over 30%)".

Living areas, hallways and stairs

Budget 45–90 minutes depending on how much soft furniture there is.

  • Cobwebs removed at ceiling and cornice level throughout; light fittings, shades and pendant flexes cleaned
  • Upholstery vacuumed including under the cushions, down the sides and underneath the frame — Allergy UK suggests vacuuming upholstered furniture "at least twice a week" between deep cleans
  • Sofas and freestanding furniture moved; the floor and skirting behind them cleaned
  • Shelves and bookcases cleared section by section, dusted and the contents wiped
  • Screens dusted dry, never sprayed; the cable run behind the television dusted and untangled
  • Internal glass, mirrors, picture glass and the tops of frames
  • Radiators, including the fins, the valves and the wall behind
  • Skirting, dado rails, doors, frames, architraves and door tops throughout
  • Light switches, dimmers, thermostats, socket faces and door handles on both sides — ten minutes across a whole house and the most-skipped item on any list
  • Stairs vacuumed into the edges and the riser-to-tread join; bannister, spindles, handrail and newel posts cleaned
  • Front door inside and out, letterbox, meter cupboard and the entrance mat lifted and the floor beneath it cleaned
  • Hard floors mopped last, working backwards out of each room

What is not in a deep clean

A deep clean is comprehensive, not unlimited. These are the jobs that sit outside the scope on almost every quote, ours included — not because they are hard, but because they change the price and the time, so they should be agreed up front rather than discovered at the end.

  • Carpet and upholstery extraction — a separate job with separate equipment, priced per room or per item (carpet cleaning costs)
  • External windows, and any internal glass that needs ladders
  • Decluttering, sorting or disposing of belongings, and clearing lofts, garages or sheds
  • Structural damp and mould remediation, as above — cleaning treats the surface, not the cause
  • Cured paint, plaster, grout haze and adhesive residue from building work, which is an after builders clean rather than a deep clean
  • Ironing, laundry and bed linen changes unless agreed as part of the visit
  • Anything requiring work at height beyond a step ladder

Doing it yourself: a realistic two-day plan

This checklist is genuinely achievable yourself. What catches people out is attempting a whole house in one day, running out of energy in the kitchen and leaving the detail work undone — which is the part that makes a deep clean look like one. Split it.

  1. Day one, morning: strip beds and start the 60°C wash. Spray the oven interior and leave it. Spray the shower, toilet and any limescale and leave those too.
  2. Day one, late morning: do the kitchen top to bottom while the oven product works — cupboards, appliances, worktops, tiles, bin, then back to the oven, then the floor.
  3. Day one, afternoon: bathrooms, one at a time, finishing each one completely.
  4. Day two, morning: bedrooms, then living areas — cobwebs and light fittings first in each room, then surfaces, then skirting and doors.
  5. Day two, afternoon: the whole-house detail pass — switches, sockets, handles, radiators, door tops, internal glass.
  6. Day two, last: hallway and stairs, then every floor, working from the furthest room back to the front door. Carpet cleaning, if you are having it done, goes after this and not before.

Using this as a specification

The most useful thing you can do with this list is hand it to whoever is quoting. A deep clean should be fixed-priced against a defined scope rather than sold by the hour, because an hourly clean has no endpoint — it can run out of time before the property reaches standard, and you have no way of saying so. Ask for the included list in writing, read it against the rooms above, and get the add-ons priced at the same time rather than later.

Berkshire EcoClean works to exactly this specification on every deep and specialist clean, fixed-priced after a short walk-through, using eco-friendly plant-based products and reusable colour-coded microfibre at no premium. Request a fixed quote or book online.

Written by the Berkshire EcoClean team from hands-on operational experience across Berkshire & Surrey. Pricing figures cite published UK sources and are reviewed every six months.

The Deep Cleaning Checklist a Professional Works To (Room by Room) — frequently asked questions

Everything a weekly clean does, plus the scope it leaves out: the oven interior, the extractor filters, inside the fridge, inside emptied cupboards, accumulated limescale on screens, taps and the toilet, grout, extractor fans, behind movable appliances and furniture, the full height of each room from the ceiling line to the skirting, and detail work on doors, frames, door tops, radiators, switches and sockets. Floors are done last in every room.

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